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Discovering Salvador de Bahia

16 December 2009 1,430 views No Comment

Salvador de Bahía is a unique city with a strong identity, which visitors will certainly not feel indifferent about. For travelers to north east Brazil, it is without doubt a must see attraction.

First impressions can be shocking, as the state of Bahia has seen economic stagnation for many years, and the city of Salvador is a vivid reflection of this; open sewers, huge poverty and chaotic traffic.

Photo by @elicrisko

Despite that, Salvador has energy and and almost unparalleled beauty, in part due to the cultural and ethnic mixing that has occurred during its history. During colonial times, Bahia had a great deal of slavery, and many of the slaves came from West Africa. Today, the population is predominately Afro-Brazillian, which shapes the cultural and artistic movements there. Unsurprisingly, strolling through the historic centre of Salvador you’ll see many craft workshops and cultural groups of theatre, dance and music – internationally known as Olodum.

The architecture of Salvador deserves special attention. The historic centre is placed along a hill, divided into ‘Cidade Alta’ and ‘Cidade Baixa’, and connected by the majestic ‘Elevador Lacerda’. The Portugues colonial buildings, with their colorful styles are plied up along steep cobbled streets and make the city extremely picturesque.

Photo by @elicrisko

The best district of ‘Cidade Alta’ is the Pelourinho, a World Heritage Site since 1985, filled with baroque churches and holding the charismatic Jesus Terreiro plaza. Here many events are held, and in the past where slaves were traded and punished. In ‘Cidade Baixa’ you’ll find markets, craft shops and textiles.


Photo by @laughlin

To experience authentic Salvador, it’s best to stay in the Pelourinho. There are many hostels and places to stay, the most impressive being Albergue das Laranjeiras, located near the plaza. It’s a restored old colonial house, with simplicity and charm. The price is affordable, with double and shared rooms. The staff are friendly, helpful and know a great deal about their city. If you want to stay away from the bustle of the centre, stay in the Barra area, which is more relaxed and has a good selection of hotels and beaches where you can chill out.

Bahia night life is an essential experience. Every night there are a variety of shows in the Pelouriinho, man of them free. In the plaza there are concerts, exhibitions and parades of Batucada and Capoeira. Tuesday is the highlight, and the streets throb to the pulsating drumming of Batucada. See a folk show at the Bale de Bahia, Miguel Santana in the theatre, dance performances from Afro-Brazillian Orix, Maculele to percussion and live singing.

Capoeira
Photo by @jrubinic

The Orixás are the gods worshiped in the rituals of Candomblé, which is the most orthodox of religions drawn from Africa and the dance is in honor of the gods. In some houses and huts in the hills of Candomblé ceremonies are still held Friday evenings and Saturdays. You can attend one of these celebrations, although it’s difficult to access them.

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